By Prerequisites: Read part 3 of this series, which covers how the step by step of how I build electrolysis tanks. This article covers how and why I built my two 55 gallon tanks, and will be more ‘build log’ and ‘things I do differently now’ than step-by-step instructions.
Why did I build not one, but two 55 gallon tanks? Capacity was my primary concern. I wanted to be able to handle larger items in a single pass, such as larger pans and dutch ovens. Also, as a side effect, my doggos can’t actually get into a 55 gallon tank because it is too tall.
Major design changes since part 3:
- Upgrade capacity from 20 gallons to 55 gallons
- Upgrade from 2 steel plates to 4 steel plates
- Upgrade from 22 gauge plates to 16 gauge plates
- Switch from using jumper cables to connect the plates to using 8 gauge wire with ring terminals
- Switch to using rebar ties to hang the pans.
The Upgrades
Capacity
Having had to restore a 17 inch pan and needing to rotate it multiple times in the smaller electrolysis tank, I realized that capacity needed to be increased.
More plates
Electrolysis is largely a ‘line of sight’ process. I wanted to upgrade the ‘coverage’ of the items in the tank, so I upgraded from 2 plates to 4.
Thicker plates
I upgraded the plates from 22 to 16 gauge. This was done so that I do not have to change them as often.
Hardwired plates
I used to use spare jumper cables to connect the plates in the electrolysis tank. In the interest of always having a more solid connection I want to retire those, put them back in the car, and use a proper connection. So I switched to 8 gauge wire with ring terminals. Using about 2 feet of wire, I created a few 6 inch lengths, with ring terminals on each side.
Rebar ties
Instead of connecting the clamps from the battery charger directly to the piece being cleaned, I have switched to using (uncoated) rebar ties as they are made from steel, conductive, and safe to put in an electrolysis tank.
Final parts list
| Item | Link | Quantity | Price | Subtotal |
| 55 Gallon Plastic Drum | GET FROM EBAY OR A LOCAL SELLER | 1 | 10.00 | 10.00 |
| 12×24 16 Gauge Plain Steel Sheets | LINK | 4 | 17.26 | 69.04 |
| Bremen Hand-Clamp, 4″ | LINK | 4 | 6.99 | 27.96 |
| Schumacher 10 AMP charger | I ALREADY HAD THIS | 1 | 0 | 0 |
| 8 AWG Ring Terminal | LINK | 1 | 5.10 | 5.10 |
| Washing Soda | LINK | 1 | 4.12 | 4.12 |
| 8 AWG Stranded Cable – 2 feet | YOUR LOCAL HARDWARE STORE | 2 (feet) | 0.55 | 1.10 |
| Rebar ties | LINK | 1 | 22.63 | 22.63 |
| S-Hook | LINK | 1 | 2.64 | 2.64 |
| Bolts and Nuts | YOUR LOCAL HARDWARE STORE | 6 EACH | 3.00 | 3.00 |
| Total | 144.49 |
Assembly
Assembling the electrolysis tank is just as similar as before:
- Fill the tank with water & washing soda at the ratio of 1/2 cup of washing soda for every 5 gallons of water.
- Drill a hole in the left and right side of the plates to connect your cables. A step drill bit is awesome for this
- Using your hand clamps, clamp the plates to the side of the drum
- Connect the plates using the screws and cables
- wrap one end of the rebar tie around a handle or other part of a pan with a secure enough connection and hang it from an S-hook.
- Lastly, connect your battery charger. negative(-) to the s-hook; positive(+) to the plates
Provided below is my ‘fully assembled’ 55 gallon tank. Happy building.
An Adventure in Cast Iron 